Dreaming of Paris

Wilson, Cotillard in "Midnight in Paris"

Film Friday

(Warning: This post contains spoilers.)

When I watch Woody Allen movies, I always anticipate a dark twist.  A relationship between two interesting people can’t last (Annie Hall).  Life will always betray us and send us to the consolations of art (The Purple Rose of Cairo).  A great artist can’t be happy (Bullets over Broadway) but a shallow murderer can (Crimes and Misdemeanors). Imagine my shock, then, at seeing unadulterated romanticism in Midnight in Paris, his most recent film. What has happened to the other Woody Allen?

A love letter to Paris, Midnight in Paris gives me an opportunity to relive my own love affair with the city.

When I was 13 (in 1964), my family spent a sabbatical year there.  My brothers and I attended a small French school (Le Cours Alfred de Musset), and we passed under the Eiffel Tower four times a day to get there and back.  (School was from 9-12 and from 2-5, with a two-hour break for lunch.) My brothers and I saw Paris as a giant playground.  We knew the metro system practically by heart and we went everywhere.  We made a habit of counting steps (to the first floor of the Eiffel Tower, up Notre Dame, up the Arc de Triomphe).  We visited Napoleon’s Tomb and the catacombs and the Cluny Museum and (multiple times) the Louvre, where I always went to gaze at the large historical paintings of Delacroix. We went to a film every weekend, often at Henri Langlois’s Cinematheque. It was a magical year.

When I returned to Paris decades later (in 1995), it was a very different city.  At first I didn’t like it.  Beggars were in abundance (often Muslim women with babies), mediocre accordion players took over the subway cars and played until people gave them money, American-style fast food restaurants and supermarkets had sprouted up everywhere, and the streets were cleaned by little cars instead of men with brooms of bound sticks.  I was struck by how many more nationalities were in evidence and was not surprised that I also encountered a march of supporters of racist politician Jean-Marie LePen chanting “La France aux Francais!”  But different though it was, I started making adjustments and realized that I could fall in love with this Paris as well.

And that is Allen’s point.  Midnight in Paris may be a celebration of Paris’s past, but ultimately it becomes a celebration of its present as well.

In the film, Gil Pendel, a Hollywood scriptwriter working on a novel, dreams of the 1920’s when American expats flooded Paris.  Then suddenly he discovers that he can visit that period at midnight every night.  He encounters Earnest Hemingway, the Fitzgeralds, Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Gertrude Stein, Josephine Baker, Cole Porter, Djuna Barnes, Salvador Dali, Luis Bunuel (to whom Gil gives the idea for Exterminating Angel), and T.S. Eliot.  Gil falls in love with Adriana, one of Picasso’s mistresses.

But she, who is living in what for her is the present, romanticizes a previous golden age, Paris’s “La Belle Epoque” in the 1890’s.  Suddenly the two of them are transported back to that earlier age and encounter Toulouse Lautrec, Edgar Degas, Paul Gauguin, and the Can Can dancers at the Moulin Rouge.  Degas, however, is discontented with the present and reminisces about an earlier golden age, the Renaissance.

All this nostalgia leads Gil to realize that ages seem golden only in retrospect.  And if that is true, then it should be possible to look at Paris today and see it as a golden age–which is how Gil is regarding present-day Paris by the end of the film.  For once, a Woody Allen film does not end with a sense of loss.

But there’s something not quite right in his depiction of contemporary Paris, which Allen sees through the filter of the past. The scenes he shows us are exactly those I remember from my childhood—the book stalls on the Seine, the street cafes in the Latin Quarter, the Shakespeare and Company bookstore, the classic monuments. To cite just one telling omission, there is no Algerian quarter. Gil may have emerged from his romantic notions of the past to face up to the hardships of the present–but the present looks just as dreamy as the 1920′s or “la belle epoque.”

Only once does a non-tourist perspective intrude: at one point Gil returns to the house where he has been talking with Hemingway and Gertrude Stein and finds instead a Laundromat.

As my novelist friend Rachel Kranz points out, it’s not that much of a wrench for Gil to leave Adriana, who decides to make her home in the 1890′s, because he’s simply makes a lateral move. The woman he find at the film’s conclusion is no less fascinating and mysterious than Adriana.  Unlike his crass American fiance, this woman loves to listen to Cole Porter and to take walks in the Paris rain.

Allen has given us a romantic cliche, a hack scriptwriter leaving his Malibu beach house and moving to the city of lights to work on his novel. I don’t have problems with this.  What I find missing, however, is a final realization on Gil’s part that he will need to negotiate between his dreams of Paris and actual Paris.  Neither one is truer than the other because our dreams have a reality to them no less than our waking hours.  But if he had acknowledged the tension, Midnight in Paris would have been a more interesting film.

 

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3 Comments

  1. Rachel Kranz
    Posted July 19, 2011 at 1:46 pm | Permalink

    I love the point that Paris in this film is seen as a romantic all-white city without the complications of globalization and the adjustments to new political and ethnic tensions–exactly how Woody Allen bleaches out New York, too, and erases everything but the elite Upper West Side world that he loves but that really no longer characterizes the city, for good or ill. He made a movie a while ago, whose name escapes me, starring Jason Biggs and Cristina Ricci, in which the characters and ambience (I think it was set in Greenwich Village) was pure 1950s–the characters listened to jazz, talked about existentialism, and generally seemed to be contemporaneous with Woody Allen’s youth, even though the movie was set in the present. It was a very odd disjuncture…and a sad one, because it keeps Allen from reaching the true greatness as an artist and a filmmaker that I think he might have been capable of and that his imitations of Bergman and Fellini show that he was definitely reaching for.

    One minor note–the cafe in the past scene in”Midnight in Paris” is visibly “Le Polidor,” which you can actually visit today, and which, at least 5 years ago, still had only squat toilets (a less romantic throwback to my student days!). When it became a laundromat in the present, I felt so disoriented, since I knew exactly where the real location was (and lived around the corner from it on a couple of a trips). But I loved the idea of how the unromantic present eats up the romantic past, though, per Robin’s wonderful post, it should have been replaced by a Macdonald’s. I think that would have been more political than Allen wanted to get, but it would have been a truer statement…

  2. Robin Bates
    Posted July 20, 2011 at 5:12 pm | Permalink

    When you talk about bleaching out New York, Rachel, I think of his movie Manhattan.= I like the point you made when you and I talked about the film’s heroine–how she comes to Paris to be an artist but only ends up as a model and mistress of male artists (Picasso, Hemingway)–and so she dreams of going back to la belle epoque where, if she can’t be an artist, at least she can be an idealized mistress. But the real golden age for women artists is ahead, not back. You noted to me that this is not a point that Allen is making but one use the film to think about it.

  3. Posted July 22, 2011 at 3:44 pm | Permalink

    I haven’t seen the film yet, Robin. I’m not the world’s biggest Woody Allen fan. But I’ll see MIDNIGHT IN PARIS at some point simply because the idea of the film interests me. Plus, I love Paris – though I’ve never actually been there. The film has certainly gotten great press.

    Could not Allen’s point be that we make of the past and present what we want it to be? He sees the world in a definite way and appears unable to change that view. At least that’s what I’m getting from your post and from Rachel’s response.

    I loved reading about your halcyon Parisian school year, Robin. It sounds magical. :)


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